Non-Floated Banshee Stator Test Guide Resistance Test

(Engine OFF) A stock (non-floated) stator has one side of the lighting coil connected to engine ground.

• Set the meter to Ohms (Ω).

Stator resistance:

Ignition coil: 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire)

Pickup coil: 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire)

Lighting coil: 0.26-0.38 Ohms (black to yellow wire)

AC Output test: Idle: 15-30 VAC

3,000 RPM: 30-50 VAC

5,000+ RPM: 50-80+ VAC Voltage should increase smoothly with RPM.

Signs of a Problem • Little or no AC voltage. • Voltage does not increase with RPM. • OL (open circuit) from lighting wire to ground. • Near 0 Ω indicates a shorted winding.

Quick Tip: Stock (non-floated): Measure wire to ground. Floated: Measure wire to wire.

Banshee Floated-Ground Stator Test Guide

Possible Problems: Little or no AC voltage. Voltage drops as RPM increases caused by one wire having continuity to ground. Infinite resistance (open winding). Near-zero resistance (shorted winding)

1.Resistance Test (Engine OFF) Set the multimeter to Ohms (Ω). Measure between the two lighting output wires (do NOT measure to ground). Typical reading: approximately 0.2–1.0 Ω (subtract meter lead resistance if necessary). Check each lighting wire to engine ground. Both should read OL (open) or extremely high resistance. If either wire has continuity to ground, the stator is not properly floated or has an internal short.

2. AC Voltage Output Test (Engine RUNNING) Leave the stator unplugged from the regulator/rectifier. Set the multimeter to AC Volts (VAC). Measure between the two lighting wires (NOT to ground). Expected output (approximate): Idle: 15–30 VAC 3,000 RPM: 30–50 VAC 5,000+ RPM: 50–80+ VAC (some aftermarket stators may exceed 90 VAC unloaded). The voltage should increase smoothly as RPM increases.

Troubleshooting Good: Voltage increases with RPM. Both wires are isolated from ground. Low resistance between the two lighting wires.

Why I No Longer Include Voltage Regulators

For many years I included a voltage regulator with every harness I sold. Unfortunately, I have decided to stop offering them.

The reason is simple: I cannot guarantee their reliability.

Most of the aftermarket regulators available today are manufactured overseas. While some work perfectly, others fail prematurely. From the outside there is often no way to determine whether a regulator is built correctly or whether it will fail after a few minutes, a few hours, or several months of use. Quality can vary from one production batch to the next, making it impossible for me to confidently stand behind every unit.

Rather than continue selling a product that I cannot personally verify or guarantee, I made the decision to focus on what I do best—building high-quality wiring harnesses. Every harness I sell is personally assembled, thoroughly tested, and inspected before it leaves my shop. That is a standard I can stand behind.

My Recommendation :

To avoid unnecessary electrical problems, I strongly recommend using a Genuine Yamaha OEM voltage regulator whenever possible. In my experience, OEM Yamaha regulators have proven to be the most reliable choice fit perfectly, and eliminate many of the headaches associated with inexpensive aftermarket replacements.

For most Banshee applications using my harnesses, I recommend:

2004–2009 Yamaha YFZ450 OEM Voltage Regulator

Yamaha Part Number: 5TG-81960-00-00 (Yamaha Motor)

Although the OEM regulator costs more than many aftermarket alternatives, it is a worthwhile investment for anyone who values reliability. Electrical issues can be frustrating and time-consuming to diagnose, and starting with a quality regulator helps eliminate one of the most common sources of charging system problems.

My goal has always been to provide products that I can confidently stand behind. By recommending an OEM regulator and concentrating on building the best wiring harnesses possible, I can continue providing the level of quality and customer service that South Texas Banshee is known for.